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CONTACTWhen people think of post towns along the Tōkaidō, many might picture Hakone or Ōtsu. But among them, Kusatsu-juku holds a rather special position. Why? Because it’s where the Tōkaidō and Nakasendō intersect at the “Oiwake” junction. In other words, for travelers in the Edo period, this was the fork in the road: “Take the Tōkaidō to Kyoto, or take the Nakasendō through Shinano Province back to Edo.”
Oiwake refers to a fork in a highway, and place names like Shinjuku Oiwake—the junction of the Koshu Kaido and Ome Kaido highways—and Shinano Oiwake—the junction of the Nakasendo and Hokkoku Kaido highways—remain in various locations.
I actually walked around this time, and the townscape’s atmosphere and preserved historical sites made me vividly imagine its former bustle—it was a really interesting place. So let’s take a leisurely stroll through Kusatsu-juku.
↓Kusatsu-juku’s townscape. So cool~
What kind of post station is Kusatsu?
Kusatsu-juku was the 52nd post station along the Tōkaidō’s fifty-three stages. Located near the Tōkaidō’s terminus and where it merged with the Nakasendō, it was a vital post town. For travelers arriving from the Tōkaidō, it was the place where hearts raced with excitement at the thought, “Kyōto is finally near!” For those coming from the Nakasendō, it was the post town where the feeling of “The goal is almost within reach” took hold.
The post town bustled with numerous honjin (main inns), wakihonjin (auxiliary inns), and ryokan (inns), along with teahouses and merchant shops. Its location at a major junction (“Oiwake”) made it a hub of intense human traffic, gathering information and culture. In modern transportation terms, it was like a large junction.
I walked through the post town.
Kakuzanji Temple and the “Ōji Road Marker”
First, I visited the “Tokaido Kusatsu-juku Oji Road Marker” at Kakusenji Temple. This road marker looks like a stone monument, but it was a crucial guidepost for travelers. Inscriptions like “Right: Tokaido” and “Left: Nakasendo” are carved into it and remain clearly legible even today. Thinking about how travelers back then must have confirmed their route here makes my heart swell.
Kusatsu-juku Honjin
Next up is the “Kusatsu-juku Honjin.” This is a must-see. The building still stands today, making it a rare honjin where you can tour the interior. It was a prestigious lodging facility for daimyo and court nobles, with rooms designated for specific uses and a beautifully maintained garden creating an exceptional atmosphere. You can really feel the tension and luxury of travel back then. There’s also a cute bus stop nearby, so access seems pretty good~
I kept saying it was a must-see, but I didn’t have time to watch it myself 😭
Someone please go watch it for me~
Site of the Waki-Honjin Daikokuya Inn and the Former Residence of Tanaka Kuzō
Near the honjin, monuments marking the sites of the “Kusatsu-juku Waki-honjin Daikokuya” and the “Kusatsu-juku Honjin Tanaka Kuzō Residence” remain. While the buildings themselves are lost, it’s enjoyable to walk here imagining how the waki-honjin and honjin once stood side by side. This conveys how large Kusatsu-juku was as a post station.
Kusatsu-juku Kaido Exchange Center
One place you’ll want to stop by during your stroll is the Kusatsu-juku Kaido Exchange Center. Here, you’ll find exhibits about Kusatsu-juku, offering detailed insights into the lives of travelers and the role of the post station. With historical materials and models on display, it’s a spot that will greatly appeal to anyone interested in walking the old highways.
Visiting after actually walking the historic sites makes it even more interesting—you’ll find yourself thinking, “Ah, so that’s what that road marker meant!” as your understanding deepens.
Around Oiwake and Tachiki Shrine
The highlight of Kusatsu-juku is undoubtedly the “Oiwake.” This is where the Tōkaidō and Nakasendō roads diverge. The remaining “Old Tōkaidō Nakasendō Oiwake Road Marker” marks the crucial point where travelers decided which path to take. Standing there today, you can still feel the journey’s crossroads: “Should I head through here to Shinano Province, or toward Kyoto…”
A short walk north from Kusatsu-juku’s Oiwake intersection brings you to Tachiki Shrine. Its striking vermilion torii gate greets visitors, and beyond the approach path stand a large sacred tree and an impressive worship hall. Founded long ago, it has been cherished by locals and travelers alike as a deity protecting safe journeys and warding off misfortune. Imagining Edo-period travelers bowing their heads here before choosing between the Tokaido and Nakasendo roads evokes a sense of profound emotion. The shrine grounds are surrounded by greenery and quiet, making it the perfect spot to rest weary feet.
There’s also a monument called the “Birthplace Monument of Hideo Ono,” which history buffs won’t want to miss.
Hideo Ono published Japan’s first history of newspaper development and was instrumental in founding the Japan Newspaper Association. He laid the foundations for the field of journalism studies.
Nearby Attractions
There are other pleasures besides history around Kusatsu-juku.
Furukawa Sake Brewery
This building was truly wonderful. You just can’t tell from Google Maps alone~
Yagura Inari Shrine
A small shrine cherished by the locals. You can feel the history of the faith held by the people of the post town.
Visiting these spots together lets you experience Kusatsu’s charm beyond just walking through historical sites.
Summary
Kusatsu-juku was one of the most important post towns along the Tōkaidō’s fifty-three stations. It flourished due to its strategic location at “Oiwake,” where the Tōkaidō and Nakasendō highways converged. Remnants like the honjin inn, road markers, shrines, and sake breweries still remain today. Walking through it, you feel more than just historical knowledge—you sense the very breath of travelers who once worried, rested, and set out again from this place.
Kusatsu-juku is a recommended spot not only for those touring the Tōkaidō post towns but also for anyone thinking, “I want to try walking the old highways!” We encourage you to walk it yourself and experience the atmosphere of travel in the Edo period.
