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This might be sudden, but have you ever wondered, “How did people in the old days cross the Oi River on the Tokaido Road?” During the Edo period, there were no bridges or boats, so crossing rivers by human power—called “river crossing”—was the norm. Located on the west side of that river was our destination this time: Kanaya-juku.
This time, I wandered around Kanaya-juku, visiting various intriguing historical sites like the statue of Nakata Genzo, the former river crossing site, the grave of Nipponzaemon, Takuen-an, and the sites of the honjin and wakihonjin. I took photos too, so I’ll casually share some stories that might make you go, “Huh, there’s something like this here!”
What is Kanaya-juku?
Kanaya-juku was the 25th post town along the Tōkaidō highway, counting from Nihonbashi in Edo. Located in present-day Kanaya, Shimada City, Shizuoka Prefecture, it sat at the eastern edge of Tōtōmi Province. Sandwiched between the Oi River to the east and the treacherous Sayonaka Pass to the west, it served as a vital stop for travelers. When river crossings were impossible, travelers were stranded, sometimes creating bustling activity reminiscent of Edo itself.
It boasted numerous lodgings and inns, including three honjin (official inns for government officials), one wakihonjin (auxiliary official inn), and 51 private inns. River crossing facilities and numerous horses and men were also permanently stationed here.
The Relationship Between the Ōi River and Kanaya-juku
During the Edo period, there were no bridges across the Oi River, and the river crossing connecting Kanaya and Shimada served as a vital transportation route. When the river was dammed for fishing, large crowds of travelers gathered, creating a bustling scene.
The site of the Kanaya-side river crossing (now Suijin Park) has faded over time, yet traces of its history remain, including an information board and a statue of Nakata Genzo.
Mr. Nakata Genzo: A Man of Integrity
Nakata Genzo was born in Kanaya-juku in 1841 as the third-generation owner of a soy sauce shop. When the Kawagoe System was abolished in 1870, he was deeply troubled by the loss of livelihoods for 1,200 people in Kanaya and Shimada combined. He devoted his personal fortune to their relief.
As their representative, he pleaded for help regarding their plight, but the authorities rejected his appeal. Undeterred, he resolved to petition the Meiji government directly. Though arrested and tortured, his fervent appeal succeeded. He was granted reclaimed land (300 hectares) and funds (10 ryō per household). Leading 100 people, he settled on the Makinohara Plateau and laid the foundation for a large tea plantation.
Statue of Genzo Nakata
Oigawa Waka from the Tōkan Travelogue
Furthermore, he embarked on the ambitious project of building a wooden bridge across the Ōi River, completing a structure approximately 1,300 meters long in 1883. For this achievement, he was revered as a “righteous man.”
scattered historical sites
From here on, I will introduce the existing historical sites I have actually walked to and seen, in addition to those mentioned above.
Nihonzaemon’s Grave Mound and Takuen-an Hermitage
The head grave of Nipponzaemon, said to be a thief, remains here, along with a legend that his mistress buried his head at this spot. It is now preserved as the Takuen-an hermitage.
Main Inn Site (Yamada-ya, Kashiwa-ya) / Sub-Inn Site (Kado-ya)
The sites of buildings that functioned as the center of the post town—such as the former site of Satakaya Honjin (now a bookstore), the former site of Kashiwaya Honjin, and the former site of Waki-honjin—are scattered throughout, evoking the town’s history.
Site of Kashiwaya Honjin
Site of the Kakaya Waki Honjin
Summary
This time, I walked through Kanaya-juku, a post town along the Tōkaidō. Located at the easternmost tip of Tōtōmi Province, it faced the Ōi River directly ahead, with Shimada-juku in Suruga Province beyond. Travelers gathered here for the river crossing, making it a bustling post town.
Walking through it now, it’s fascinating to see historical spots preserved everywhere—like the statue of Nakata Genzo, the Kawagoshi crossing site, the grave of Nipponzaemon, the Takuen-an hermitage, and the remains of the honjin and waki-honjin inns. Learning Genzo’s story gives you a glimpse into how deeply the people of this town lived with and faced the river.
Walking the Tōkaidō made me realize, “The wisdom and drama of the past are scattered everywhere along this road.” Next time, it might be interesting to view the river from the Shimada side.
