No.54To Sanjo Ohashi Bridge ― Walking from Yamashina to Kyoto’s Goal

The Entrance to Yamashina ― Tokurinji Temple and the Yamashina Canal

Passing through Otsu-juku and heading toward Kyoto, you first enter the Yamashina area. Located here, Tokurin-ji Temple is not a large temple, but it is a serene temple remaining along the Tokaido. Passing through the mountain gate, you are enveloped in quietness, creating an atmosphere that makes you want to rest a bit during your journey.

Travelers of old likely stopped at temples like this to pray or receive water. More than a tourist attraction, it’s a temple rooted in the community, making it a place where you can truly feel the reality of travel.

And when it comes to Yamashina, you simply can’t miss the Yamashina Canal. A branch of the Lake Biwa Canal, it was a vital waterway connecting Kyoto and Shiga during the Meiji era. Highlights include brick tunnels and stone aqueducts, offering glimpses of modern architectural charm. The cherry blossom-lined path is especially beautiful in spring, making it even more enjoyable when you choose the right season to walk it. Though travelers of the Edo period never knew this modern landscape, for us walking here today, it’s a place where we can feel the “connection to history.” I also visited the canal in Ōtsu, but the sound of water is truly soothing~

Hinooka Pass ― The Last Pass Road on the Tōkaidō

Now, onward to Hinooka Pass. This area strongly evokes the remnants of the old Tokaido Road. After passing through a gently rolling mountain path, a stone marker stands by the roadside reading “Old Tokaido Road: Hinooka Pass Route.” For travelers, these road markers were true guides, offering a sense of security itself. To us today, they might seem a bit simple, but for people back then, they were probably more reliable than GPS.

But man, this pass was tough~. I rented a bike to go, and the next day my muscles were sore and swollen.

…The road was narrow too💦

Continuing further up this steep pass brings you to the “Hio Pass Human and Horse Path Monument.” This stone monument commemorates the path once traveled by people and horses, telling the story of transportation history. The very phrase “human and horse path” feels quintessentially Tokaido, doesn’t it? Men pulling large carts, horses carrying loads on their backs, and traveling pedestrians. Stopping here, images of such comings and goings come to mind.

Around Awata-guchi ― Where light and shadow coexist at Kyoto’s entrance

As you pass through Hinooka Pass, the city of Kyoto finally draws near. From here begins the Awata-guchi area. Once the eastern gateway to Kyoto, it’s also a place steeped in history.

First, the famous site is the “Awata-guchi Execution Grounds.” During the Edo period, this was where executions took place. Travelers passing through must have felt mixed emotions here. Now, only a monument stands, but the contrast between the brightness of the saying “Cross this point, and you’re in the capital of Kyoto” and the shadow of the execution grounds feels quintessentially Tokaido.

Just nearby is the “Bukkōji Temple Main Hall.” Rather than a grand temple, it has a quiet presence; stopping by for a moment when you’re tired from walking helps calm your mind.

By the time I got here, my T-shirt was soaked through with sweat—I could wring it out—so I cooled off here for a bit lol.

And don’t forget Awata Shrine. Perched on a small hill, many travelers must have prayed here for safe journeys. I actually didn’t know this, but it’s still known as the “God of Swords” and seems to be a sacred spot for sword enthusiasts.

Maybe that’s why… there were quite a few foreigners there, you know?

Ryoma, Oryo, and Mitsuhide

And scattered around Awata-guchi are spots that history buffs simply can’t resist.

One is the “Site of Sakamoto Ryoma and Oryo’s Wedding Ceremony.” Ryoma and Oryo held their ceremony here and set off on what is said to be Japan’s first honeymoon. Standing before this historic site, one can’t help but imagine the smiles that must have graced their faces here.

もう一つは「明智光秀の塚」。本能寺の変で敗れた光秀を弔ったと伝わる塚で、歴史の影の部分を感じさせます。龍馬とお龍の幸せなエピソードのすぐ近くに、光秀の悲しい結末がある。京都らしい、歴史の明暗が同居したエリアです。

歴史に疎い僕でも明智光秀は知っていますから、ちょっとテンション上がりましたね笑。

三条通に出る ― 白川橋と平安神宮

街中に入ってくると、三条通に合流します。ここにあるのが「三条通白川橋道標」。道標ってシンプルなんですけど、昔の人たちが「これを頼りに歩いたんだな」と思うとグッときます。

And as a little detour, I also made my way over to Heian Shrine. But this place is HUGE‼️

The massive vermilion torii gate looms right before you—a truly imposing sight to appear at the end of a journey along the Tōkaidō. Built in the Meiji era, it was unknown to Edo-period travelers, but for us modern-day walkers, it’s a landmark that makes you feel, “I’ve arrived in Kyoto!”

The Goal: Sanjo Ohashi Bridge ― A Traveler’s Dream Destination

And finally, we arrive at Sanjō Ōhashi Bridge. It marks the end of the Fifty-Three Stations. Still standing proudly today, its form spanning the Kamo River is truly a symbol of Kyoto. At the foot of the bridge stand the statues of Yaji and Kita, humorously marking the journey’s end.

What must travelers in the Edo period have felt when crossing this bridge? The joy of finally reaching Kyoto? The relief of ending their long journey? Or perhaps the bittersweet thought, “Now I must return to Edo”? Standing here today, we can feel a small connection to those feelings of the past.

…But Kyoto is packed with foreign tourists, and just walking around a bit leaves me utterly exhausted…

Summary

The stretch from Otsu-juku to Sanjo Ohashi Bridge was a section packed with history and scenery, truly fitting as the final leg of the Tokaido.

At Yamashina, we gazed upon the modern irrigation canal; at Hinooka Pass, we truly felt the hardships of travel; at Awata-guchi, we touched upon a history of light and shadow. And finally, the goal at Sanjō Ōhashi Bridge. Walking it (well, cycling, but still), it felt less like a mere “end point” and more like one of the Tōkaidō’s true highlights.

I imagine travelers in the Edo period crossed this bridge with hearts full of emotion. For us walking it today, it was a route that let us savor just a little bit of that same feeling.